Bouldering is a dynamic form of rock climbing that redefines climbing skill as less about brute power and more about distilled movement. It’s a discipline that attracts climbers who prefer its puzzle-like challenges and rewards them with a satisfying feeling of accomplishment after a session of problem solving.
Boulderers often go climbing in groups, sharing equipment and acting as spotters. This helps maintain safety and ensures that everyone has fun, regardless of their ability. Contact Alta Boulders for professional help.
Introduction
Bouldering requires a lot of physical conditioning – especially to build strength and endurance in the fingers, arms and core. But it also demands a certain degree of technical skill and body awareness, including techniques such as flagging, heel hooks and mantles. Many climbers will also incorporate a range of cross-training exercises into their training program to develop the other elements of their climbing fitness: core, flexibility and cardiovascular health.
Boulderers often train together in a friendly atmosphere, helping each other with equipment and acting as spotters for those who need it. The social aspect of the sport is highly valued by many climbers, and it is one of the great things about this form of rock climbing.
Aside from the social benefits, there is a real sense of achievement when you climb a problem. The heart race, the palms sweaty, the determination to reach that next hold – it’s a truly inspiring moment, and one you will remember for a long time.
Another unique feature of bouldering is the grading system. This is used to indicate how difficult a problem is, with each grade representing a step up in difficulty from the previous. The system is very subjective and can be influenced by the height of the climb, the type of rock, the conditions of the route and even the individual climber’s ability. But despite its subjectivity, the grading system helps guide beginners and provides a good way to measure their climbing progress.
Equipment
If you’ve ever looked at the gear for bouldering, it can seem overwhelming. Field Mag has waded through all the options to pick out 10 essential staples that every boulderer should have in their bag whether they’re heading to their local gym or outdoor crag.
The sport of bouldering combines strength-intensive climbing with technical skill to solve complex problems. Its challenges include flat or angled surfaces—known as faces and slabs—as well as overhanging walls that require delicate footwork. The ability to maneuver the body through these difficult sequences—which are called “problems” in bouldering—can be as mentally taxing as they are physical.
A key piece of equipment for bouldering is the crash pad, which helps prevent injury when a climber falls while on a problem. It’s also important to have a good pair of climbing shoes and a chalk bucket. Chalk helps keep hands dry and makes it easier to grip holds. A roll of finger tape—Zinc oxide tape that covers small tags on fingers or a emery board—is another essential tool for boulderers.
Finally, a climbing rope is a safety precaution in case the climber loses control or gets stuck on the rock. A boulderer may also use a belay partner, either a certified belay instructor or a friend who’s comfortable being a spotter.
Boulderers also need to be careful not to destroy or disturb natural features, such as lichen, moss and other plants growing on the rock and in crevices, or packrat nests or spider webs. It’s essential to minimize damage and always follow local rules about camping, parking and trash disposal.
Safety
While bouldering is less dangerous than other forms of rock climbing, falling off a short problem can result in serious injury. The key to minimizing this risk is proper pad placement, the use of spotters to guide you to a soft landing, and good body positioning while climbing and when falling. It is also important to practice the “tuck and roll” technique for safely absorbing the impact of a fall.
Unlike a gym, outdoor bouldering requires a much more rigorous safety program. There are more variables to consider, including weather conditions, varying rock quality, wild animals, and poor landing zones. Those who are new to bouldering should seek out a knowledgeable guide to learn how to properly place and use crash pads, the safety protocols for a given area, and basic body movement and climbing techniques.
The lingo of bouldering can be confusing to outsiders. A quick primer:
A “spotter” is someone who stands underneath a climber during a problem, helping to orient them to the proper landing zone and guiding them to the pads when needed. Having a spotter is an essential part of bouldering, particularly for more difficult problems or in areas where the spotting can be dangerous.
The father of modern bouldering, John Gill (1890–1963), is often credited with developing many of the basic tools and techniques for this discipline. He pioneered the use of magnesium carbonate (gymnastic chalk) and controlled dynamic movements to help boulderers ascend a route without using ropes. He also devised an idiosyncratic B-grade rating system and inspired many famous rock athletes, from Yvon Chouinard and Royal Robbins to John Sherman and Peter Croft. In The Art of Bouldering, Francis Sanzaro explores all aspects of this fascinating craft, bringing bouldering into conversation with other sports and arts, such as architecture, dance, skateboarding, painting, parkour, martial arts, and gymnastics, to show that it is more than a sport; it’s a discipline that can be nurtured and strengthened like a muscle, fostering mind, body, and soul.
Climbing Techniques
The art of bouldering involves more than just a good grip. A strong, powerful body is also a must. The book describes several training exercises designed to help a boulderer improve his or her basic strength and agility. Some of these exercises include the front lever, slow muscle-up and one-arm chin. Other exercises are designed to build the muscles involved in specific types of climbing problems. For example, the fingertip extensions used in smearing and palming are useful for beginners as well as experienced climbers. In addition, the lunge is used to build leg strength for traverses and compression problems.
Aside from enhancing your body’s natural climbing abilities, bouldering is a social activity that allows you to meet fellow climbers and learn new techniques from them. Boulderers often work together to solve problems and act as spotters when necessary. This can be helpful for the beginner, especially as he or she is trying to overcome psychological blocks that are hindering his or her progress.
To prevent injuries, a boulderer should warm up before climbing a cliff. To do this, he or she should perform some simple muscle-relaxation exercises such as pushing up on the ground or doing some push-ups until he or she feels sweaty. It will be much more laborious and dangerous to climb a tough cliff with cold, stiff muscles.
In addition to climbing techniques, The Art of Bouldering A Beginner’s Guide to the Boulder Climbing World provides information about belaying, a system that helps minimize the risk of injury during a fall by providing protection for the climber. A belayer is an important part of the climbing team because he or she holds one end of a rope that is passed through an anchor at the top of the route and takes in slack to keep the climber safe.
Climbing Problems
Climbing problems are short, difficult sequences of hand and footholds on a rock wall. They’re called “problems” because overcoming them requires more than just strength, adds Minneapolis Bouldering Project head routesetter Ayo Sopeju. They demand the ability to think and move strategically through a sequence of moves. Training to improve hand grip and movement mechanics, paired with sheer mental tenacity, is key to progressing from beginner to advanced climber.
Unlike roped climbing, bouldering doesn’t require a partner to spot you if you fall. However, having one or more friends along to psyche each other on and share tips can be an excellent way to learn new techniques. It’s also more fun.
Boulderers use a variety of slang terms when describing a problem: deadpoint (n) or dyno (v): A dynamic move involving the use of both hands; a highball: a problem tall enough that a fall from its top could result in serious injury. A quality set of crash pads is essential to minimize the risk of injuries like finger tweaks, blown shoulders, and overtraining, all common in an intense sport that relies heavily on dynamic movements and explosive power.
To gauge your climbing improvement, consider using a simple system to record your performance on a particular problem. The simplest measure is your V grade — a number that’s easy to calculate and compare with other climbers, but it resists consensus and can vary widely, especially indoors. A more useful measure is your recent V Max or your VSum, which accounts for the overall difficulty of each session and is an indicator of peak performance. It’s also important to keep in mind that the V scale isn’t an absolute; it reflects your current ability, and a higher number doesn’t necessarily mean you’re a better climber.